Evaluation- Process, Pros & Cons

For the editorial project brief we had been commissioned to photograph an editorial spread for The Telegraph Magazine. We had the choice of what to photograph but it had to be within the four topics of food, fashion, product or portrait. We were given a studio slot to use the Phase One Cameras and the Capture One Software to photograph our images with.

I focused my editorial images on the latest beauty trends for the current seasons. I decided to look into the recent trends in terms of colours, skin makeup and eyebrows and focus on the top trends within my pictures. I wasn’t too keen on the idea of photographing a fashion editorial spread, and I enjoy photographing beauty and portraits so that is how I came to my idea.

I didn’t face many problems during this project to be honest. The only hiccup I had was trying to relate my pictures to the Telegraph Magazine demographic, but after looking into it and pitching my idea to Julian, I think I have made it seem that beauty trend editorials can fit within any age range.

I had a lot of positives during this project in terms of having a solid idea and initial research done very early on, I had a smooth shoot day in terms of getting my equipment and having a good team sorted, I got some good quality images that work well within the layout and I also am proud that I have managed to photograph, edit and get everything finished for the deadline.

I wouldn’t change much if I was to do this project again, except that I would maybe choose food and/or drink for the current seasons. It is a type of photography I have always been slightly interested in and think it would have been a very fun and colourful shoot to create.

I feel that my images support my topic and idea well and show what I initially wanted them to. They show the current skin and makeup trends for the Spring/Summer seasons.

Final Chosen Edits & Layout

Final Chosen Images Used In The Layout-

 

 


Final Chosen Layout-

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Testing My Edits In The Layout

When testing my images in the layouts, I had clear favourites that worked really well together in the layout. I had favourite images of the red lipstick look, the gold highlighter look, the blue pastel eyeshadow look, the purple eyeshadow look, and the four small cropped down images of the eyes and lips.

 

Layout 1-

 

Layout 2-

 

Layout 3-

 

Layout 4-

 

 

My Favourite Edited Images

Emmy-

 

These are my favourite images of Emmy. Out of my favourite ones I managed to pick one from each makeup trend. I liked these particular images of each makeup trend because they really show good colour and skin. Mt particular favourites are the images of the freckled skin and blue eyeshadow. I really like how they came out in terms of the lighting, angle and pose she is doing.

The makeup look of the winged eyeliner is one where I edited on the makeup using Photoshop. I didn’t get the chance to photograph a look like this on the day, but had looked into it beforehand, so therefore I took one of the plain images of Emmy and edited on the eyeliner to create another look.

I am proud of how these have come out and that I managed to capture each makeup trend I had intended to.

 


Nana-

 

 

 

 

 

The images of Nana that I like the most consist of three of the red lip trend, one of a green eyeshadow look and one of a pastel purple eyeshadow look. The ones of Nana in the bold red lipstick are probably my favourite images out of the whole shoot. We had a lot of fun taking these images and she was great at showcasing the red lip trend.

The images of the purple eyeshadow trend didn’t come out how I had imagined them too, I still like them but am just a little bit disappointed by them. I wish I had got closer shots of the eyes rather tan full face portraits.

The image of Nana with the green eyeshadow is another look where I edited the makeup on in Photoshop. Green was a colour I had been looking at during research and wanted to put into a makeup look to photograph, but again, didn’t have the time so therefore had no images involving a light colour green. I as most of my mood boards show that pastel colours are one of the latest trends, this green shade really works and fits into the series of images I created.

 


Cropped Down Facial Features-

 

These are a few images I have cropped down to fit into the four small square boxes on the second to last page of the layout. One of the boxes will show the natural eyebrow trend, and two of the boxes will show two different lip colour trends. I still need to figure out a fourth image to crop down to fill in the last small box, but it will probably be another eye image so I have to eyes and two lips.

 


Joint Portrait-

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Trend- Natural skin with a slight colour on the lip (Emmy) and a slight golden glow on the eyelids (Nana)

This image is my favourite of all of the group portraits I took. I wasn’t too keen on them overall but thought I would take them incase I didn’t like any of the others for the layout. This one best showed the subtle gold eyeshadow on Nana and the subtle pink tone on Emmy’s lips. This will be an image I would use as a last resort incase none of the others fit together or work well in the layout.

My Editing Process

When going through my images to pick my best ones to edit. it was a lot easier than I thought. I had a rough idea of what kind of images I would pick when taking them anyway as I could visualise what would work in the layout and what wouldn’t.

Once I had selected some of my favourites, I very simply edited them only using a few tools that would make some slight adjustments. I didn’t want to make too many adjustments so that they look edited/fake but I wanted to edit them enough so that the skin looked nice and clear and that the colours were bright enough and stood out.

I edited the skin using a surface blur technique that I had been shown before by Chris. The surface blur is a quick and easy way of achieving smooth looking skin on Photoshop. For the colours and highlights for the makeup I used the simple dodge and burn tool and also painted over a few eyes and lips, ever so slightly to brighten to colours up a little bit. Other than this, I sharpened up some of the details and I felt my images looked good, so I left the editing at that.

Contact Sheets

These are some contact sheet outtakes from my photoshoot.

Overall I took around 340 images, these are a few examples of the images I took.

I am happy with the images I managed to get from the day and have taken enough images to fill up the layout with 9 different final edits. I am also able to crop some of these shots down to fill the 4 small square boxes on the layout as they are goof enough quality to crop down and fit in the smaller boxes, to show close ups of the eyes and lip colours.

I am now going to go through each makeup trend/look I photographed and pick a couple from each look that I can edit and use to test in the layout.

Final Shoot Day- 02/05/18

Wednesday 2nd May was the day of my scheduled studio slot. My partner was Lukas and I had the first slot of the day from 10am until 12:30pm. On the morning of my shoot, I got to Ravensbourne quite early, I arrived there around 8:30am. I got there early so that I could go and collect my equipment from CLR’s lockers, which I had previously arranged with them and could set everything up on time to start shooting at 10am on the dot.

I got my models and makeup artist there for 9am, giving them plenty of time to get the first two makeup looks done to start photographing them as soon as possible. My assistant Lukas was running slightly late to help me set up due to travel issues, he didn’t end up arriving until  around 9:45am. I had managed to set my studio up by myself but just needed a hand with the last few bits setting up the camera and testing the lighting.

Once my shoot time had started at 10am, I was taking my first lot of images of Emmy and getting the first makeup trend photographed. Once the first look was done on Emmy, I switched to photographing Nana and vice versa. This ensured that my shoot ran really smooth and everything went to plan with getting the images I had planned.

This was how my schedule ended up going-

  • 10am- Start photographing- l
  • Look 1- Emmy- natural eyebrows and freckled skin
  • Look 2- Nana- bold glow highlighter look/trend
  • Look 3- Emmy- bold pink lip look/trend
  • Look 4- Nana- bright red lip look/trend
  • Look 5- Emmy- pale blue eyelids and light pink lips
  • Look 6- Nana- pastel purple eyelids
  • Look 7- Emmy- subtle peach coloured blush and matching colour on lips
  • Look 8- Nana- subtle golden glow on the eyelids
  • Finished off the photoshoot with portraits of both girls together laughing and having fun

I finished photographing around 5 minutes before my shoot slot ended at 12:30, giving me a small amount of time to have a break before Lukas’ shoot started. Luckily Lukas was using the same lighting and studio set up as me so we didn’t have to change a lot round for him to start shooting.

Overall, I am very happy with how smoothly and calmly my photoshoot went. I feel I captured some good images that I can edit and play around with to put into the layout. I couldn’t have asked to be paired with anyone better, me and Lukas worked really well together, he constantly helped me out and played a huge part in my photos turning out so well.

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My assistant Lukas posing for a lighting test shoot using QP cards and a light meter. 

Recapping Before My Shoot Day

As my studio slot to use a Phase One camera is tomorrow, I am quickly recapping on who my team are, my visual references and what I will be photographing during my scheduled time slot.

My Team-

  • Emmy Burrows- Model 1 (white)
  • Nana Boaitey- Model 2 (black)
  • Grace Peploe- Makeup artist
  • Lukas- Assistant

Moodboard/ Visual Reference 1-

Screen Shot 2018-06-07 at 2.39.42 pmVisual references for colours and which facial features I will photograph each trend on.

  • Pastel colours- eyes
  • Natural look- brows
  • Simple eyeliner- eyes
  • Bold colours- lips
  • Glowing skin- face

Moodboard/ Visual Reference 2-

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Visual references for the kind of shot I will take to show each trend.

  • Whole face shots-  showing skin makeup and some lip makeup
  • Close ups of the eyes and lips- macro style shots to fit in the 4 small boxes on the layouts
  • Close portraits- turn face to the side to show the glow in the skin
  • Fun facial expressions- pouting to show lip colour boldly and winking to show the eye makeup closely

 

Progress Map/ Time Schedule

During this unit we have started our dissertation prep lessons, one of the things we have learnt is that it is key to staying on schedule with our planing and research. The best way to do this is to create a personal progress map. This can be done in many different ways but the aim of it is to give yourself a weekly time schedule to work from, to ensure you get everything done in time for hand in.

I thought it would be helpful to myself and my editorial project to create a progress map. I created one so I knew what had to be done and when by, to make sure I had everything done on time. I started my progress map of from the date of my shoot which is 2nd May and ended on the hand in day. My progress map shows what I need to do and when by from my shoot date, to editing, testing in the layouts and having everything completed for hand in.

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How Do I Know My Lighting Plan Will Work?- Diagrams Explained

In a previous post I uploaded a lighting diagram to give a rough idea of how I am planning on lighting my photoshoot. I want to use lighting that will radiate the models skin and really make the colours of the makeup pop in my images. As I shoot quite a lot of portraiture and beauty in my own time, I am using old photoshoots as a reference to help me with this project.

This was the diagram I sketched out and what I will follow on the day-

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I will have my model in the centre of the studio set up and around my models I will have two soft boxes, pointing towards the backdrop to make the backdrop brighter and also to light up the back of the models head and face. In front of the model, I will then have a large octalight softbox to light up the front of the face using the flash. At each side of the octalight I will have two white polyboards to reflect the flash and the light onto the models face, which will make the colours and glow brighter in the makeup.

Previous shoots where I have used this set up-

 

How Does TTM’s Demographic Affect & Apply To My Idea?

When the demographic issue was brought to my attention, it seemed like a big issue and that I would perhaps have to rethink and change my idea to fit the demographic age range of 35+. However, after some debate and conversation, I don’t need to change anything.

I realised I don’t need to change my idea to something different, as makeup and beauty can appeal to anyone of any age. Makeup and beauty trends aren’t just for teenage girls. I explained to Julian that anyone can wear any type of makeup that they want and wear any colour they feel suits them. Everyone is free to express themselves at any age.  I also mentioned the fact that older people are trying to look younger in today’s society and be free with what they wear and how they look.

I gave Julian an example of my mum, who works in an office, and where I am quite stylish and up to date with current trends, my mum is always asking me to help her with her makeup for work and to also borrow some of my products. There was one time where she was asking me which shade of pink lipstick she should wear to work one day, and if green eyeshadow would go with her work outfit another day. My mother is 48… and I love that she is bold and creative with makeup.

My mother is in the age range of the demographic ’35+’ and is very into beauty and makeup, so this type of editorial shoot in the Telegraph magazine would appeal to someone like her.

Older women who are published models, into beauty and wanting to look/feel younger-

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This moodboard of images show that these older women who are published models, fit within the demographic age range of 35+ and therefore may read the Telegraph magazine. Which also means that they would be interested in seeing an editorial shoot like mine, based on beauty trends for the current season. 

 

The Telegraph Magazine Demographic

During my meeting with Julian and peers James and Elspeth, something was mentioned to me was ‘how will my shoot idea fit within the Telegraph magazine demographic?’, and it made me think…

The demographic for the Telegraph Magazine is age 35+, applying to business people on their commutes or mature, older people who read at home. The Telegraph magazine is very factual and contains serious articles compared to other newspapers and supplements, therefore, perfect for that age range demographic. A recent study showed that over 46% of their readers were over 65 years of age, while only 15% are under the age of 34. This is probably due to the content it produces, like I previously mentioned, more factual and serious articles etc.

In recent years, The Telegraph Magazine has been trying to appeal to a more younger audience so that they can get their information and facts from their newspaper and supplement rather than social media and the internet. They have been trying to appeal to a younger audience by posting and publishing a lot more of their content and articles online, this way virtually anyone and everyone of any age, will be able to access and read their content, and not be so restricting.

 

 

 

Sign Off Meeting & Feedback

I have had a sign off meeting and feedback session with Julian and two classmates. I had the chance to pitch my idea to them, go through my WordPress and get some feedback of how to progress forward with this project.

I pitched my idea of photographing current beauty trends for the Telegraph Magazine to Julian and he seemed to like my idea. Although I had a bit of work to do in terms of researching how my shoot will fit into the Telegraph Magazine demographic and what kind of images I will be taking.

I wasn’t 100% keen on my idea as I was always unsure of how well it would work with the Telegraph magazine but after speaking with Julian, I convinced myself as well as him that it can work well.

Julian gave me the option of possibly doing another photoshoot if I don’t like how my photos come out, he suggested I do food or product which would be something different to portrait or fashion. As I am the first group to shoot I would have more than enough time to try and arrange another shoot. I will consider this depending on how my images come out.

Julian also mentioned I need to either create more sketches or mood boards of the style of images I will take. Including angles, distance and what facial feature I will be focusing on.

My Shoot- Models and MUA

Grace Peploe- Makeup Artist

I have worked with Grace on a few shoots before, she is very professional and always fits my brief of the kind of makeup I want in my shoot. Grace is able to create a range of different looks from soft, natural skin looks to bold and colourful looks. She will be able to cater for the looks I am after for my shoot as she has a large makeup kit with a wide range of products.


Nana Bailey- Model 1

I haven’t worked with Nana before but I am looking forward to doing so. I sourced her from a new faces collection at ‘Model Management’ agency. She will work well for my shoot because she has clear, well toned skin, nice natural looking eyebrows, big eyes and big lips. Which will be perfect in showcasing the colours and makeup looks. Big bold colours will work well on her lips and her skin and really stand out in the images.


 

Emmy Burrows- Model 2

I have worked with Emmy before when it was my Billboard shoot where I shot a new advertising campaign for Illamasqua (image 3). Emmy is a natural in front of the camera and she also has really bold features, perfect for showcasing makeup looks. We worked really well together, and this gives me confidence that my shoot will go well again with her. I didn’t source Emmy from an agency this time around as I had her contact details to contact her personally for this shoot. I sourced her from Oxygen models when I used her before.

 

 

Sketching Into The Layouts

When it came to sketching my ideas into the layouts, I wasn’t sure which category my idea would come under, so I drew into two layouts instead of one. I sketched into the fashion and portrait layouts as I am unsure of which one mine comes under as there is a bit of a cross over within my idea.

My idea comes under portraiture in terms of the type of photos I will be taking… close up face shots, macro facial feature shots and some head shots yet it comes under fashion in terms of focusing on trends, colours and seasons.

Sketching into the Fashion layout-


 

Sketching into the Portraiture layout-

Summarising My Shoot

A quick summary of what I will be photographing for my editorial Telegraph Magazine shoot. It will be a fun and intimate portrait shoot, showing the latest beauty trends for the current Spring/Summer 2018 season. I will shoot a range of style shots from macro shots, to close portrait to even some shots from the neck upwards.

The macro shots will focus on areas of the face such as the eyebrows, eyes and lips. The macro eyebrow shots would show one trend of big bushy eyebrows (for example) and then another macro shot would show the bright pink lip colour (for example).

The close up portraits would show how colours look in comparison to skin colour and again, showing more makeup trends for the season. So in the close up images, I would photograph the model laughing, or winking or smiling with another lip colour on thats on trend at the moment, and then get one of the model closing one eye to show the eyeshadow colour on their lid.

The more far away shots from the neck up would be showing the gold highlight trend that is applied to the cheekbones, nose, cupids bow and collar bones. Again, showing another makeup trend for the current season.

 

Model Look- Moodboard

As my photoshoot is based on beauty and makeup trends, I feel that I can use any type of model for my shoot. As makeup doesn’t have an age limit or any type of restrictions on it, anyone can work for my shoot.

I would want one black and one white model to show how the different makeup trends look on each skin type, and to show diversity within my images. As long as my models have good/clean looking skin and bold features that would show the makeup well then I am happy to photograph them.

I am looking for bold cheek bones to show the freckles, skin makeup and highlights, I am looking for big natural brows to show the brow trends, someone with eyes that aren’t too hooded to show the eyeshadow looks and also someone with relatively nice lips to show the lip colours

I have made a moodboard to give myself a rough basis to work from when it comes to finding my models.

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Photoshoot Moodboard

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  • close up portraits- intimate feel
  • fun facial expressions
  • showing lips, eyes and eyebrows
  • the makeup looks and colours being the current trends for spring/summer 2018

Beauty/Portrait Photographers

Jonathan Baron

Jonathan Baron shot portraits of Rita Ora for Burberry and Dua Lipa for Clash magazine. The middle portrait with the grey background was from an article about makeup and clothes and it featured the model wearing green eyeshadow underneath her eyes. I like the fun personality he has captured from Rita and Dua and then how he has lit his portraits of the model in the green eyeshadow.


Simon Emmett

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His work has featured in-

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Hazel Gaskin

Hazel Gaskin is a young fashion and portrait photographer based in London. She shot this beauty portrait campaign for the makeup brand 3ina. The images are very bold and pink as that is one of the trends at the moment and what the new collection was about. She shot close ups of pink metallic lips and a smokey pink eye. The campaign shoot also included other portraits of a model pulling a fun facial expression in bright pink lipstick, and then there was another image of two models with bold black face stamps on. I really like the clean and fun look of this shoot and will definitely take inspiration from the angles and colours she uses when it comes to photographing my editorial shoot.


ASOS Face and Body- (Brand campaign images)

I am always shopping online on ASOS and always following their online and social media content so therefore I am always seeing their advertising and campaign images. I really like the way that the photographers for their shoots capture the makeup and hair styles. I like the bright lighting that they use that really bring out the colours of the lips and eyeshadow and I also like the angles that they have used to capture the portraits. They are close up and intimate with the model, showing them having fun and really making the makeup pop.

I will take a lot of inspiration from their campaign images in terms of the makeup, colours, the angles, shots and poses they include.

Makeup Trend Articles

These are some articles that I read about makeup trends from this year and last year.  From reading these articles it gave me a clear insight into what beauty portraits I could shoot to create my editorial for The Telegraph Magazine.

https://www.elle.com/beauty/g14100375/eyebrow-trends-2017/

https://www.harpersbazaar.com/beauty/makeup/g14428016/makeup-trends-2018/

https://www.cosmopolitan.com/uk/beauty-hair/beauty-trends/g12451844/spring-summer-2018-hair-makeup-trends/?slide=12

https://www.elle.com/uk/beauty/make-up/articles/g32558/makeup-trends-2018/

Within my beauty style portraits I would show the makeup trends on the models faces, in a portraiture style. I would shoot close up shots of the eyes, lips, eyebrows and their skin to show the makeup styles and how to they look in person.

What makeup trends are there-

  • bushy, brushed up eyebrows
  • bold black eyeliner
  • face glitter
  • pastel colour eyeshadows
  • bright pink and red lips
  • bold, gold highlighter
  • natural looking, freckly skin

For example, I would do some portraits of a model with bushy, brushed up eyebrows. I would then do another close up style portrait of a model with face glitter on the cheekbones and so on.

Finalising An Idea

Now I had looked at The Telegraph Magazine, rival supplements, editorial photographers and also photographers who had featured in The Telegraph Magazine, I had a better understanding for my idea.

I really liked the look of the portraiture images I saw within the supplement issues. I liked the idea of creating a portraiture shoot about a person or even a trend of some form. I know I didn’t want to do food or product as I didn’t particularly like the style of shooting that featured in the Telegraph Magazine.

Below, I brainstormed some ideas down and circled the ones I liked the sound of the most-

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I circled things that interested me for my editorial shoot. I liked the idea of shooting things such as a new trend, a seasonal trend or a colour trend. I liked the thought of doing this in the style of beauty, hair and portraiture. For example, doing an editorial portraiture shoot of the latest eye makeup trends, or lip trends for example.

Photographers Featured in Telegraph Magazine

Toby Glanville

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Toby Glanville is an editorial, portrait and landscape photographer. His work has been published in supplements such as The Telegraph Magazine, Financial Times Magazine and The Guardian. His feature in the recent Telegraph Magazine issue was a location portrait shot of business people infront of a grand looking building, with the title ‘Grand Designs’ printed around the frame of the image. Showing that the portraits and title link together.

 


Thomas Slack

Thomas Slack is a New York based photographer and director who shoots editorial for clients such as T Magazine, The Telegraph Magazine, The Last Magazine and Vogue.com to name a few. He recently shot a fashion editorial about embellishment and art print for The Telegraph Magazine, which featured on the cover and had a spread inside.


Tom Jamieson

Tom Jamieson is a location and studio based portrait photographer who tends to take portraits in the form of ‘stories’. He has been featured in supplements such as New York Times magazine numerous times. He also featured in a recent issue of The Telegraph Magazine, taking editorial portrait images of the Queen’s son-in-law which was supported by a double age spread article.

 


Daniel Berman

Daniel Berman is a editorial portrait photographer based in Seattle, USA. He as well has recently features in the latest issue of The Telegraph Magazine, he took portraits to support an article about Amazon’s founder Jeff Bezos wanting to send his customers into space. He has also taken images of Snoop Dog for an American Magazine article, and images of Bill and Mandy gates for an article featured about them in a news article online.

 

Editorial Photographers

Food Photographers- 

Dylan Swart

  • seasonal food
  • recipes
  • food for the season
  • colours
  • occasion food

Annabelle Breakey 

  • thanksgiving spread
  • breakfast food
  • fish
  • recipes
  • set meals

Mihir Hardikar 

  • soup dishes
  • chinese dim sum
  • tacos
  • set meals
  • cultural food

Profile Portrait Photographers-

Rory Lewis

  • celebrity portrait
  • supported by an article
  • the images sum up what the writing is about
  • tv personalities

Jon Premosch

  • celebrity portraits
  • actresses and actors
  • bright colours
  • capturing personality
  • facial expressions

Nick Knight

  • portrait and fashion
  • celebrity personalities
  • cover story
  • going with an article about the person in the images
  • showcasing a fashion trend

 


Product Photographers-

Meghan Bayley

  • shoes and makeup collections
  • bright colours
  • products for the seasons
  • gender certain products
  • bright lighting

Dennis Pedersen

  • colour trends
  • makeup products
  • seasonal makeup
  • white backgrounds to fit around magazine text

David Lewis Taylor

  • colour trends
  • where to get the latest trends from
  • patterns such as snakeskin
  • credits of where to get products involved around the images
  • no people, just products

Fashion Photographers-

Andile Mthembu

  • focusing on trends for the season
  • not all clothes from the same brand
  • men and women
  • the photos match the title

Matthieu Belin

  • showing the trends
  • showing the fit of the clothes involved in the trend
  • colour trends
  • themes

Sebastian Kim

  • more art involved in the portraits
  • hairstyling and makeup looks
  • not necessarily celebrity
  • showing trends
  • seasonal wear
  • colour trends

 

Brainstorming Ideas

Now I had read the brief and looked into the Telegraph Magazine, I started to jot down some initial ideas of what kind of things I could shoot for each type of editorial image. I noted down ideas for food, product, portrait and fashion.

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